Day 1 – 15 Nov 07, Thursday
It’s a rainy day as we depart the US for Europe – the beginning of our Erich Wolfgang Korngold Todestag travels. Memorial events have already been happening for a few weeks, now: The Korngold Project started last month; the London Philharmonic has already given two of its three concerts; etc. Our first stop is a brief diversion for the weekend to the Stuttgart area in southern Germany to visit the village from where my mother’s grandmother emigrated in 1881.
Day 5 – 19 Nov 07, Monday
Leaving Frankfurt this morning for London. There were a couple events in the UK already, but the highlight of the London events is the complete concert performance on Wednesday of Korngold’s fourth opera, Das Wunder der Heliane. This particular concert was even listed as #6 in the BBC Music Magazine’s “10 best events of November”, so expectations are high. It will be nice to see London again – I think it’s been almost 20 years since I was last in town…
(Postscript, 10 Dec 07: The November 2007 issue of BBC Music Magazine also contained a brief biography of Korngold by Jessica Duchen – back-issues might be available.)
Day 6 – 20 Nov 07, Tuesday
It’s a very somber day in London – completely overcast with rainfall seemingly imminent every moment – as I work my way across town. Destination: the South Bank Centre and the Royal Festival Hall for a 09:00 dress rehearsal of the London Philharmonic’s Heliane performance. I arrive quite early but manage by chance to find Brendan in a nearby café. We spend a few minutes catching up, not having seen each other since last year’s Die tote Stadt performance at the NYCO. Coffee finished, we’re off to the rehearsal where we meet up with a small but select group of Korngold experts including Kathrin Korngold Hubbard Korngold, Jessica Duchen, Guy Wagner (author, whose new German biography of Korngold is to be published shortly), and a few others. The rehearsal is spectacular – the assembled “dignitaries” cannot say enough about the transfiguring performance, and it’s only the rehearsal! The audience will be in for a treat when actual performance energy/excitement is added.
The rehearsal over, the group heads across the way for a quick midday snack before we all go our separate ways: Jessica has a pre-show lecture to polish; Brendan is off to finalize other details for the many upcoming events next week; and I’m off to find a copy of “Opera” magazine with Jessica’s Heliane article in it.
Day 7 – 21 Nov 07, Wednesday
A day of anticipation for this evening’s performance. (I’ve been told that it’s near impossible to get reporters to attend concerts at the RFH, but tonight they are reportedly expecting upwards of four-dozen for this performance alone!) A leisurely stroll around town and back to the hotel for a rest and a change of attire. At 17:30, the Korngold biographers, family members, enthusiasts, admirers and a host of others assemble at the Royal Festival Hall for a pre-concert lecture being given by Jessica Duchen. The half-hour presentation, sprinkled with audio examples, sheds light not only on Erich’s biography, but also illuminates details of the opera about to be heard, including some historical details just recently uncovered. Though brief, the talk is packed with information and ends with the intriguing observation that (paraphrasing), “…if this performance is not sold out, it’s due to the way audiences have been conditioned by the prevalent style of 20th century modernism to think they’ll loathe any modern music they don’t already know and appreciate, so they don’t go. And it will be their loss.” Postscript: The three-hour performance lived up to everything the dress rehearsal promised it would.
Day 9 – 23 Nov 07, Friday
The rains of the previous day have melted away as I arrive at the Festival Hall once more: this time for a brief meeting with writer and Korngold biographer Jessica Duchen, an old name but a new acquaintance. Not a lot of time to spend together as she needs to meet with her publisher to return the proofs for her third novel, but it will be nice to get to know each other a little. I’ll also be meeting with her webmaster to talk about possible considerations for the Korngold Society website. After that, the day will be mine.
Day 10 – 24 Nov 07, Saturday
Spent the morning doing some last minute shopping for any souvenirs I might want. The weather has turned substantially colder, but it’s not raining. This afternoon we’re leaving London behind and moving on to Vienna for the week of memorial events scheduled there. Brendan and most of the Korngold family are already there. I hope it’s not another 20 years before I get back to London again…
Day 11 – 25 Nov 07, Sunday
Haus der Musik, 11.00:
This morning we’re gathering at a local musical venue “Haus der Musik”, where a special concert is scheduled to welcome the Korngold grandchildren to Vienna, and officially open the week of memorial events. I’ve known about the concert for some time, but have no idea what’s actually on the program. Regardless, any recital of Korngold’s music – especially one devoted to nothing but Korngold’s music – is bound to be a treat for any fan of his music.
Film Museum, Augustiner Strasse 1. 20.00:
Just one block from the famous Vienna Staatsoper, the Film Museum has already been presenting a different classic film with music by Korngold for days. From 16 November through 30 November they will have shown twelve of the films for the local viewing pleasure. The features are the English versions of the films so that Korngold’s original music can be heard and appreciated. Tonight’s movie is “The Adventures of Robin Hood”, and it will be fun to see it in a theater setting, instead of on the television.
Day 12 – 26 Nov 07, Monday
A day off from specific Korngold activities, but I decide to tour Schönbrunn Palace, where Emperor Franz Josef spent part of his life, and where Korngold’s incidental music to Viel Lärm um Nichts, op. 11 was premiered on 6 May 1920. While the Schlosstheater was not part of the tour, it’s still fun trying to imagine what it must have been like to walk the halls when Korngold was there, wondering what rooms and corners he himself might have been permitted to see. And of course, just seeing the former palace of the Hapsburg was worthwhile by itself.
Day 13 – 27 Nov 07, Tuesday
It’s 18:30 and we’re off to the Jüdisches Museum on Dorotheergasse for the official opening of the Korngold exhibit. There will be a brief ceremony tonight with a couple of speeches marking the significance of this exhibit, recognizing the Korngold anniversary this month, and honoring the Korngold grandchildren and their families. Following these festivities is a special private viewing of the exhibit prior to its opening for the general public tomorrow morning, and there is a small wine reception at the end to round out the evening.
Day 14 – 28 Nov 07, Wednesday
This afternoon was a special lecture by John Mauceri at the University of Vienna. I didn’t make it, but rumor has it that it was very interesting and informative. (I wonder who can give me a summary…)
And tonight at the Musikverein the Aron Quartett, supplemented with pianist Henri Sigfridsson, presented a chamber concert that included Korngold’s Piano Quintet, op. 15 on the program. Of the “Korngold group”, surprisingly only Kathrin and her husband, and my parents and I decided to attend. The recital was well-attended in general, and the ensemble played Korngold’s Quintet marvelously well, with probably the fastest version of the third movement I’ve personally heard. Since none of the other Korngoldistas managed to attend, we’ll definitely have to write a review so everyone knows how well it went.
Day 15 – 29 Nov 07, Thursday
Theobaldgasse 7., 11.00:
We’re running a little late this morning, so we’re literally running (well, walking really quickly, at least) as the three Dixons on this trip generally know where they’re headed, but aren’t exactly certain of where the Korngold residence is located on the block. At 11:00 there’s a dedication ceremony for a new plaque memorializing the building where Korngold lived for 15 years of his life in Vienna. This is supposedly the last Korngold residence in Europe to receive an historical plaque. Now only the residence in Los Angeles remains to be so honored.
Vienna Concert House, 19.30:
Aside from the Korngold Exhibit at the Jewish Museum, tonight is possibly the highlight of the week here in Vienna: the Radio-Symphonieorchestra Wien, under the direction of John Mauceri, will present a themed concert “Hollywood in Vienna/Vienna in Hollywood”. Anticipation is high as we make our way across town to the concert hall, certain it will be a performance to remember. This will be the first time film music has been performed in a traditional Viennese concert venue. The concert will highlight the connection between Austrian émigré composers fleeing Nazi persecution and the Hollywood “film factory” where many settled and made a living, as well as showcasing the music of Erich Wolfgang Korngold, and his incredible influence on movies music, which is still heard in the film scores of many modern composers.
(Postscript, 01 Dec 07: The performance was terrific. Hearing this music performed live by a full orchestra is something every film music aficionado should be allowed to experience. An excellent way to end my European travels.)
Day 16 – 30 Nov 07, Friday
A very early – did I say VERY early? – ride to the airport. I think I’m the first of the “Korngold group” to begin the trek home, leaving today for a last-day stay in Amsterdam before heading back to the US. Brendan is off later this morning for Prague and a special opera premiere for that city. Katy leaves tomorrow on her trip back to the US. Leslie and Gary are staying a little longer, I think. It’s always sad when friends part, but there’s always the hope that a reunion will be just around the corner.
Originally posted Month 2007 — reformatted January 2011